Tuesday 31 October 2023

Listed Buildings in Dewsbury - Part 5

 
A detail of Pioneer House

Continuing my investigation of the Listed Buildings of Dewsbury, having been impressed been the quality of the architecture of the various warehouses on Wellington Road and Wellington Street, I crossed over Dewsbury ring road to Dewsbury railway station to have a look at the blue plaques. 
 
Blue plaques at Dewsbury railway station
 
The expansion and prosperity of Dewsbury as a textile manufacturing town was due substantially to the development of a warehouse system to take advantage of the railway after it arrived in 1848. Although the sidings and good sheds have long since gone, the monumental scale of the packing and shipping warehouses developed for woollens, in particular shoddy and mungo, can be appreciated from this vantage point. 
 
No. 13 Wellington Road

Walking down Wellington Road past the nine bay elevation of No. 13, which forms part of the same four storey building that is built on a triangular plot that also fronts Bond Street, I came to Nos. 11 and 9, which are part of the listing for No. 26 Bond Street.

Nos. 9 and 11 Wellington Road
 
To the left is a three storey warehouse, which is part of the same building that has a frontage at No. 26 Bond Street. It still has its lifting beam beneath a Diocletian window, although the taking doors on the first and second floor have been replaced by windows. On the right is what seems to be a later infill building, which doesn’t possess any architectural features of much interest. 
 
No. 9 Wellington Road
 
Although I didn’t closely examine the stonework, from my photos I can see that there is considerable colour variation and in places there are concentrations of clay ironstone nodules, which suggest that this has been quarried locally and not brought in from further afield by rail.
 
A blue plaque at No. 9 Wellington Road

Before carrying on down to Wellington Road East, I took a few photos of the adjoining property at No. 19 Croft Street (1880) which has a cart entrance and, although I didn’t realise it at the time, is part of the same building that I had photographed at No. 24 Bond Street. 
 
No. 19 Croft Street
 
Taking note that its side elevations are actually built in brick, which may have been supplied from one of the brick pits marked on the 1855 Ordnance Survey map, I then had a quick look at No. 7 Wellington Road East, another warehouse on a triangular plot which was apparently built in two phases from 1858-1862, although I can’t see any join or variation in the masonry. 
 
No. 7 Wellington Road East

According to the official Historic England listing, Nos. 3 and 5 were built for James Howgate and Sons c.1880, but comments by the current listing adviser, Crispin Edwards, seem to indicate that it was actually built between 1858 and 1866. 
 
Nos, 3-5 Wellington Road East
 
Looking at my photos, there is a subtle difference in the colour of the sandstones used for Nos. 3-5 and No. 7, which suggests that they may come from different quarry source, but I had seen a lot of variation so far in my investigation of Dewsbury’s historic architecture and can only speculate about their provenance. 
 
The north-west end of the Co-Operative Building
 
The Baroque style north-west end of the Co-operative Building (1914), built with uniformly coloured sandstone ashlar in a Baroque style, was next on my list of buildings to photograph but I quickly moved along to the central section (1896), which was designed by Holtom and Fox – architects for Dewsbury Town Hall. 
 
The central part of the Co-Operative Building
 
It is the original southern end, Pioneer House (1880) by Holtom and Connon, which is the most impressive part of the building. Departmental shops were on the ground floor, a library, conversation rooms and offices on the first floor and the Industrial Hall, with 1500 seats, on the second floor. 
 
Pioneer Buildings
 
Designed in the Italian Renaissance style, it has a richly ornamented main entrance, incorporating fluted pilasters, festoons and roundels containing carved busts. Along the front elevation, there are various sculpted heads, floriated detailing and various geometrical motifs. 
 
Views of Pioneer Buildings
 
I again didn’t closely look at the sandstone used for the ashlar but, scanning through several photos, it is generally light brown in colour and is quite different to the buff sandstones that I had seen in many buildings and which I thought were possibly brought in from Huddersfield or Bradford. As I had discovered when researching Dewsbury Town Hall, Fox later used Thornhill Rock from Morley to build Morley Town Hall (1895) and it is quite possible that this sandstone has been used for the Co-Operative buildings. 
 
Pioneer Buildings
 
On the other side of Halifax Road is the former Salem Methodist Church (1863), which is now the Madni Masjid mosque and is in the process of being renovated. It is built in large blocks of sandstone ashlar and has a richly decorated pediment, with scrolled foliage and a central roundel. 
 
The Northgate elevation of the former Salem Methodist Church
 
When photographing its Northgate elevation, I was interested to see the Cloth Hall Mills (1874) which, although not listed, has a series of roundels with the heads of the Machell brothers, Robert and William – owners of this shoddy and mungo mill – and Benjamin Disraeli and someone who is named on the blue plaque only as Cobden, but is thought possibly to be Richard Cobden MP, although various statues do not show him with a beard.
 
Cloth Hall Mills
 

Monday 30 October 2023

Listed Buildings in Dewsbury - Part 4

 

A keystone at Nos. 23-25 Wellington Road

Continuing my exploration of the Listed Buildings in Dewsbury, having been interested to see that the various textile warehouses on Bond Street are of high architectural quality – both for their design and stonework – I walked up to Wellington Road, where the 4 storey Nos. 9-13 is built on a triangular plot that narrows to a rounded end.

No. 13 Wellington Road

As often is the case, I find the Historic England listing description very hard to understand, which isn’t helped by their practice of publishing a great swathe of text without organising this information into a set of comprehensible paragraphs.

No. 15 Wellington Road

On the opposite corner of Bond Street, No. 15 (c.1868) forms a very large 4 storey multi-angular building, designed in an Italianate style, with massive buff/yellow medium grained sandstone used for the fine ashlar and dressings. As with the buildings on Bond Street, there are no signs of lifting beams for moving the finished products or goods entrances and it looks more like an office block than a warehouse.

No. 22 Wellington Road
 
My next stop was No. 22 which, along with other buildings on this street, did not show up when I entered a town centre postcode for the British Listed Buildings website Photo Challenge. This mid C19 office building is relatively plain, except for its vermiculated quoins and dressings to the ground floor, but it provides another example of a sandstone with distinct orange colour variation – as seen at Dewsbury Minster and Nos. 2-4 Grove Street.

Vermiculated quoins and dressings at No. 22 Wellington Road

On the opposite side of Wellington Road is No. 17, the old Dewsbury Reporter building, dated 1861, where a blue plaque provided by the Dewsbury Matters initiative mentions that it is one of several buildings built on land that was sold off by the London and North Western Railway Company and was first occupied by a rag merchant.

No. 17 Wellington Road

I didn’t examine the stonework closely, but my photo of the blue plaque shows that it possesses similar colour characteristics to No. 22 and also contains clay ironstone nodules. This is probably another example of the use of a local sandstone, from either the very local Birstall Rock or the escarpment of Thornhill Rock to the immediate east of Dewsbury.

No. 26 Wellington Road

A little further down Wellington Road, the unlisted No. 26 is notable for its very large rock-faced rustication of its quoins and surrounds to its round arched windows and doors. These are made of a similar sandstone to the one used for the rock-faced walling and, again, are probably local Coal Measures sandstone rather than a medium grained gritstone that has been brought in by rail from quarries working the Millstone Grit Group.

Nos. 23-25 Wellington Road

Nos. 23-25 is another building that my postcode search hadn’t revealed; however, having been very impressed with the architectural quality of the various buildings in this part of Dewsbury, my curiosity took me further down the road and I was pleasantly surprised to discover yet another fine set of carved heads on the keystones.

A keystone at Nos. 23-25 Wellington Road

Continuing down to Nelson Street and along to Wellington Street, I took a few quick snaps of Nos. 1 and 1a (1873) - a woollen textile warehouse including offices and shops and possibly by R.T. Johnson. Both the rock-faced and massive dressings appear to be built with a similar sandstone, which is of a uniform buff colour.

No.s 1 and 1a Wellington Street

Walking up Wellington Street, I diverted briefly to photograph the retaining wall gatepiers and railings to the Central Methodist Church (1839). It provides another example of sandstone with a sharp brown to orange colour variation and, with the church being built before the arrival of the railways, this was very probably quarried locally.

The Central Methodist Church on Wellington Street

The Grade II Listed No. 3 Wellington Street (1872) was another building that was not my list to photograph, but it is an interesting small scale urban palazzo warehouse, with a Classical front elevation built with uniformly buff coloured medium grained sandstone ashlar. It is another building that is probably designed by John Kirk and Sons and, although not visible, it apparently still retains its roof level hoist.

No. 3 Wellington Street

I continued up Wellington Street to the former headquarters of the Dewsbury Union, which the Goad insurance map of 1887 shows was still the site of the court and police station but which the 1893 edition shows had been demolished and replaced by the Union Offices. Although most of the warehouses that I had seen had now been converted into offices or residential use, the interior of this building is apparently now becoming quite dilapidated.

The Dewsbury Union Offices

As with all of the other buildings that I had seen in Dewsbury to date, I just took a few record photos of the stonework from which I can see that only the front elevation is built with high quality medium grained buff sandstone, which has been used for the ashlar and fine details such as Corinthian capitals, fluted pilasters and the dentilated string course and cornice.

A detail of the entrance to the Dewsbury Union Offices

Saturday 28 October 2023

Listed Buildings in Dewsbury - Part 3

 
A carved keystone depicting a ram at No. 21 Bond Street

Continuing my investigation of the Listed Buildings in Dewsbury, I continued to the top of Grove Street, where I was surprised to see the array of later C19 warehouses on Bond Street, many of which have been designed in the Italian Renaissance Revival style. 
 
A view down Bond Street
 
At the end of the 18th century Dewsbury’s population was only around 1,000, but it had grown to more than 14,000 by 1851, due to the extremely rapid growth of its textile industry. The town was an early proponent of mass recycling, specialising in the production of two types of yarn that were made from rags – which were known as shoddy and mungo. 
 
A view up Bond Street
 
The warehouses and brokers offices on Bond Street and other larger ones on Wellington Road, in Character Area 5A: Western, as defined by the Dewsbury Conservation Area Appraisal, were clustered around the Dewsbury Wellington Road railway station on the London and North Western Railway, which opened in 1848 and had sidings and large good sheds to serve them. 
 
Opposite Grove Street is No. 24 Bond Street (c.1880), a four storey warehouse and offices and next to this is No. 22 (1868), by William Thornton for the wool-stapler Matthew Grandidge – a dealer who buys, sorts, grades and resells wool. No. 20 (1862) is another warehouse for Matthew Grandidge, this time by Charles Henry Marriott and No. 18 (1871), by John Kirk & Sons, was built for Crawshaw & Sons, who sold leather goods and produced drive belts for machinery. 
 
Nos. 18-24 Bond Street

I didn’t look closely at any of the sandstone but, as with the stonework at Nos. 2 and 4 Grove Street, it is uniformly light brown in colour and there appears to be no difference between the stone used for the rock-faced walling and the dressings. These contrast with the buff/yellowish sandstone ashlar seen in Barclay’s and HSBC banks, The Arcade and Dewsbury Town Hall. 
 
Quarries marked on the 1855 Ordnance Survey Survey map
 
The arrival of the railways by 1850 had enabled to architects to specify the best building stones from Huddersfield, Bradford and Halifax for such prestigious buildings, but I suspect that the sandstone to build these warehouses was quarried from the Thornhill Rock; however, the 1855 Ordnance Survey map shows several quarries nearby on the Birstall Rock. 
 
The 1930 geological memoir states that the Birstall Rock is extremely variable in character and contains many ironstone balls, which spoils the appearance of the rock and makes it difficult to work. Although this description wouldn’t be considered applicable to the buildings on Bond Street, the tower and north aisle at Dewsbury Minster does contain such clay ironstone nodules. 
 
No. 26 Bond Street
 
Retracing my steps up Bond Street, No. 26, an office which is included in the Grade II Listing for 9-13 Wellington Road East, is dated by Historic England at c.1800, but it doesn’t actually appear on the 1855 Ordnance Survey map. On the opposite side of Bond Street is No. 21, which Historic England describes as “Commercial building, in modified Italian style. Late C19”. 
 
No. 21 Bond Street

The Historic England listing, unsurprisingly, barely mentions the fine carved heads to the keystones, but a comment on the official listing states that this building was designed by Charles Henry Marriott in 1862, for woollen manufacturer John Greenwood, and that the carving might have been by the monumental mason and architectural carver, John Schofield. 
 
carved heads on the keystones of No. 26 Bond Street
 
As I had already seen on the Barclay’s and HSBC banks, the great importance of the woollen textile industry of Dewsbury is recognised by a ram being carved on to one of the keystones, which here looks like it is being weighed. 
 
A carved keystone depicting a ram
The relatively plain No. 23 has another original Historic England listing that just refers to it as a late C19 commercial building, but another comment by Crispin Edwards, a listing adviser for Historic England, narrows down its construction to 1857/1858.

No. 23 Bond Street
 

Thursday 26 October 2023

Listed Buildings in Dewsbury - Part 2

 
A grotesque on the Black Bull public house

Having had a quick look at Dewsbury Baptist Church and Dewsbury Town Hall, when starting my exploration of Dewsbury's listed buildings, I set off towards Corporation Street along Crackenedge Lane, only to stop immediately at the late C19 Italianate Palazzo style Barclay’s Bank.
 
Barclay's Bank
 
The sandstone used is another uniformly buff coloured medium grained gritstone, which is generally in good condition but has had repairs undertaken in isolated areas to the ashlar. Also, the vermiculated rustication to the ground floor still retails sharp details, as do the sheep and carved heads on the keystones. 
 
Carved heads on Barclay's Bank
 
Nos. 18 and 20 Corporation Street, a late shop and office building, are built in another uniformly buff sandstone, but it is very plain and simple and there was nothing to make me want to cross over the road to take a closer look. 
 
Nos. 18 and 20 Corporation Street

Nos. 14 and 16 (1899) are shops that form the northern entrance to The Arcade, which was scaffolded at the time of my visit; however, I could still see enough of the ashlar sandstone to get an appreciation of its general physical characteristics. 
 
Nos 14 and 16 Corporation Street
 
Retracing my steps to Market Place, the front of The Arcade (1899) by Albert Holmes Kirk of John Kirk & Sons, is described by Historic England as being designed in a restrained Renaissance style. Looking at this elevation, the sandstone reminds me of the Huddersfield stone from around Crosland Moor, which has been used in some of the central Sheffield Board Schools centred on Leopold Street in Sheffield city centre.
 
A detail of the exterior of The Arcade
 
The early C20 Black Bull public house, designed in the Arts and Crafts style, is yet again built with a uniformly buff coloured medium grained sandstone. Where the first floor overhangs the ground floor on the splay, a well carved half animal/half human grotesque forms a corbel, which forms an unsual feature. 
 
The Black Bull public house
 
A handful of other listed buildings can be found around Market Place, most of which have been rendered or painted, but the former Midland Bank (c.1900) is the only one with any great architectural merit. Designed in an Italianate style, it has rustication to the ground and first floors – sometimes vermiculated – with intricate floral details and sheep, lion and human heads set amongst them. 
 
The former Midland Bank
 
Continuing down Market Place on to Westgate, which looks quite run down in places, I walked up Daisy Hill to No. 41 - a shop and domestic accommodation, built after 1853 and by 1861, and possibly designed by John Kirk and Sons, for William Fryer. 
 
No. 41 Daisy Hill
 
Further up Daisy Hill, I turned off and headed up Grove Street to the former Fox’s auctioneers at Nos. 2 and 4 (1878), which was also designed by James Kirk and Sons. The entire range of buildings, which was extended around 1919 and 1933, is built in the same rock-faced walling stone, which is grey-brown in colour and planar bedded, with a yellowish massive medium grained sandstone used for the dressings. 
 
Nos.2 and 4 Grove Street
 
The saleroom is the only building in the complex that really caught my eye, partly because the north elevation is built with a sandstone that has the same colour variation as that seen in the tower and north aisle at Dewsbury Minster. 
 
Nos. 2 and 4 Grove Street
 
The highlight of this building are the two carved heads of William Frederick Fox and Dr. George Fearnley, the first mayor of Dewsbury, whose mutton chop whiskers and full beard respectively have been superbly depicted by the sculptor.
 
William Frederick Fox and Dr. George Fearnley