A Further Exploration of Handsworth

 

Bramley Hall

A couple of days after a good day out to Old Whittington, a sunny Saturday morning quite spontaneously prompted me to catch  the No. 71 bus from Treeton to Harthill, an attractive village on the border of Rotherham and North East Derbyshire. 

 

Decorative stones in the interior of All Hallows church

 

I had visited All Hallows church a few times and examined the Rotherham Red variety of the Mexborough Rock in an old quarry, which is set a short distance to the east. I had no reason to further explore Harthill and just wanted to get out of the house for a couple of hours and, although I had another look at the decorative stone used in the chancel, I can't really add anything more to my previous Language of Stone Blog posts. 

 

St. Joseph’s Roman Catholic primary school

With the fine weather continuing, my next trip on the following Monday also just required a short bus journey - this time to Handsworth, which I had explored a few times during the COVID-19 Pandemic in 2020. Alighting from the No. 95 bus, I proceeded to St. Joseph’s Roman Catholic primary school, where I took a few photos for the British Listed Buildings website. 

 

The rear of St. Joseph’s Roman Catholic primary school

I then popped into the churchyard of the adjacent St. Joseph’s Roman Catholic church to photograph the rear elevation of the school and here I discovered a Commonwealth War Graves Commission (CWGC) headstone made of Portland stone, which commemorates Bombardier J.W. Foreman of the Royal Artillery. 

 

The headstone of Bombardier J.W. Foreman

 

Retracing my steps and crossing Handsworth Road, I had quick look around Handsworth Old Cemetery, where there is the CWGC headstone of Private J.T. Cawthorne of the King’s Own Yorkshire Light Infantry. The worksheet doesn’t mention the stone used, but it looks very similar to the Creetown granite, which I had seen used for the headstone of Driver C.W. Eagers of the Royal Engineers in Crookes Cemetery. 

 

A detail of the granite used for the headstone of Private J.T. Cawthorne

 

I took a few general photos of substantial later Victorian memorials, where various granites have been used, including pink Peterhead granite, which is easily recognisable. The grey granites are probably from Aberdeen, but I didn’t examine them closely and the red granites used for the simple headstones looks quite different to the Peterhead granite, but my photos don’t show their dates and I can't determine their mineralogy and texture from them. 

 

Granite memorials in Handsworth Old Cemetery

 

Making my way down the public footpath past the allotments and on to Bramley Hall Road, where Bramley Hall, dated by Historic England (HE) to the early C18 with rear addition (c.1875) and mid C20 alterations, is surrounded by an estate of inter-war semi-detached houses. 

 

Views of Bramley Hall

Returning to Handsworth Road via Bramley Lane, I took a couple of photos of the Jeffcock Memorial Water Trough and Drinking Fountain (1900), which are made with pink Peterhead granite and grey granite from the Cornubian Batholith respectively. 

 

The Jeffcock Memorial Water Trough and Drinking Fountain

I stopped again at the entrance to St. Mary’s churchyard, where the Portland stone war memorial is set into the churchyard wall that is made of sandstone which, like that used for Bramley Hall, was probably obtained from a sandstone in the Pennine Middle Coal Measures Formation.

 

Handsworth war memorial

I had first visited St. Mary's church a couple of times in 2016, when my days out were mainly spent investigating the mediaeval churches of South Yorkshire and noted that the rebuilt chancel arch (c.1870) has alternate voussoirs made of Rotherham Red sandstone. On this occasion, while having a quick look at the east end, I could see that it has also been used for the renewal of the tracery and window surround to the north window of St. Katherine’s chapel. 

 

The north window of St. Katherine's chapel

At the east end of the chancel, set within a round cornered enclosure with an ashlar plinth and wrought iron railing, contains 4 chest tombs of various styles, dated by HE as 1658, mid C19 and 1889. One of the C19 tombs is made of a red sandstone that again looks like Rotherham Red sandstone which, in my experience, is not used for monuments.

 

Chest tombs at the east end of the chancel

Earlier in the year at the Sheffield Heritage Fair, I met various representatives of the Handsworth Museum and Historical Society, based in the stable block to the former Handsworth vicarage, which I never knew existed, and after taking a photo of the old vicarage, which now holds weddings and events, went to look at the museum. 

 

The former Handsworth vicarage

 

Having been offered a cup of tea, I got talking to the various members of the society who were in attendance, I was surprised to see Chris Ellis of the Diocese of Sheffield turn up, who I had met several times during the Church Explorers Week event that he had organised the previous year. 

 

Sunny Meadows Nursery

From here, I set off down Handsworth Road on my way to Handsworth New Cemetery and was again very curious to see that Rotherham Red sandstone is used for the quoins and dressings to the Sunny Meadows Nursery, which has walling built with the ‘ginger nut’ hued sandstone that is used for most of the historic architecture in Handsworth.

 

Rotherham Red sandstone dressings at Sunny Meadows Nursery

Headstones at St. Bartholomew's Church

 

The regimental crest of the Cameronians (Scottish Rifles)

As I am by now accustomed to doing when preparing a British Listed Buildings Photo Challenge, which includes a visit to a church, I had looked on the Commonwealth War Graves Commission (CWGC) website to see if their were any of their headstones in St. Bartholomew’s churchyard and found that 16 were located there.

 

The CWGC headstones in st. Bartholomew's churchyard

Of these, there were only two regimental crests that I was not yet familiar with – the Air Training Corps and the Seaforth Highlanders – and having found a map of the graveyard on the Whittington History website, I was surprised to discover that the grave references on the Excel spreadsheet downloaded from the CWGC website don’t seem to match up with the areas marked on this map. 

 

A map of St. Bartholomew's graveyard

 

Before looking round the interior of St. Bartholomew’s church, I had a quick look around the part of the churchyard to the south of the church and was curious about the provenance of the stone used for the very large grave slab used to commemorate various members of the Whittam family, where the dates of death recorded range from 1827 to 1879. 

 

A grave slab for members of the Whittam family

An expert might be able to assign an approximate date to the making of this headstone – and others near the lychgate that are delaminating - particularly in relation to the arrival of the railway in the area, which enabled better quality stones to be brought in from further afield. 

 

Delaminating headstones

The geological memoir refers to the Wingfield Flags as having once supplied paving stones and gravestones from its flaggy beds and the church guide records that it was used for the walling of the 1863 church and, when briefly looking at the building stones used for the exterior church, I concluded that the same stone has been used for the original tower and the walling used for the church that was built in 1896. 

 

The headstone of Driver E. Burgin

When wandering around the churchyard to the south of the church, I came across the headstone of Driver E. Burgin of the Royal Army Service Corps, which is made from Portland stone. I had hoped to use its CWGC grave reference to help me to find the other headstones, but there isn’t one and I resigned myself that I would have to randomly criss-cross the extension to the churchyard in search of the others. 

 

The regimental crest of the Royal Army Service Corps

 

When talking to the local historian Philip Morris, while drinking a cup of tea, he told me that he had undertaken considerable research on the CWGC headstones and that he had produced a booklet that highlights the lives of the men and woman who are commemorated here. 

 

A booklet by Philip Morris

He then kindly offered to show me the location of the 15 headstones still on my list, but firstly pointed out the large fir trees, which mark the position of the Norman church that was demolished to make way for the church built a few metres to the north in 1863

 

Yew trees marking the position of the Norman church

 

In Staveley and Brimington cemeteries, which I had visited a couple of years earlier, I discovered that nearly half of the CWGC headstones were made with Hopton Wood limestone, which was quarried from the Lower Carboniferous Bee Low Limestone Formation near Wirksworth. 

 

Headstones made with Stancliffe Darley Dale gritstone

The next 10 headstones that I found are made of Stancliffe Darley Dale medium grained gritstone, which I had seen many times before in Derbyshire and  South Yorkshire. Approaching the headstone of Cadet G. Hughes of the Air Training Corps, the texture of the stone suggested that it might be a Botticino marble replacement of the original headstone, but it is in fact Portland stone, which is quite weathered with a loss of some fine detail. 

 

The regimental crest of the Air Training Corps

The headstone of Private C.E. Buxton of the Seaforth Highlanders, with its fine stag’s head crest, is also made of Portland stone, as are those of Signalman A. Matchett of the Royal Signals, Private J. Wright of the Pioneer Corps and Lance Corporal J. Elliott of the Auxiliary Territorial Service. 

 

The regimental crest of the Seaforth Highlanders

While finding the CWGC headstones, Philip talked about his work to record all of the graves in the churchyard, which he has researched in depth, and he told me that he had just started to lead walks and that a stonemason had told him about some of the stones in the graveyard.

 

Headstones of A. Matchett, J. Wright and J, Elliott

 

I explained that, as a geologist, I also lead walks and give talks about the various stones used for monuments and headstones and pointed out Carrara marble and various granites that are in the graveyard, including the pink Peterhead granite from the Aberdeenshire coast. 

 

A headstone made of pink Peterhead granite

 

St. Bartholomew's Church - The Interior

 

Stone carvings by John Holden of Sheffield

Entering St. Bartholomew’s church by the original south door to the door, having briefly looked a the various stones used in its exterior, there is a large community space with a kitchen area and I was immediately offered a hot drink and I sat down with this to talk to a local historian, Philip Morris, who was in attendance.

 

A view east along the nave

 

When I finished my tea, I had a very quick look around the church, which is plastered, and I didn’t look closely at the buff coloured stone used for the arcades and chancel arch, which I presume is a medium grained gritstone from the Derwent Valley in the area around Darley Dale.

 

A figure representing Music

 

The imposts to the chancel arch are carved with figures, described in the church guide as representing Music and Praise, with these playing a harp and cymbals respectively. On either side of the chancel arch there are two heads - Queen Victoria and Bishop Selwyn of Lichfield – but I did not take photographs of these.

 

A figure representing Praise

 

The church website also mentions representation of Moses and Melchizedek as priest and king, one hand bearing a scroll and the other uplifted in blessing. Also, at the west end of the nave on the south side is Aaron as High Priest holding the budding rod and on the north side a representation of Purity, with a lily.

 

A carving depicting Melchizedek

 

All of these heads and other floral details to the arcade were carved by John Holden of Sheffield and it is assumed that he was also responsible for the many head-stops seen on the exterior of the church, which appear to be have been carved out of Ketton stone – a Jurassic limestone that is composed almost entirely of evenly sized ooliths.

 

The gravestone of John Holden

 

I had never heard of John Holden before, but it is very likely that I have seen his work when photographing many Victorian churches in Sheffield. The only reference that I have found relates to a gravestone in Walkley cemetery, which was made by him for his very young son and on which he was later commemorated. 

 

Encaustic tiles next to the altar

Behind and next to the altar are some fine encaustic tiles by Maw & Co, one of the principal makers of tiles where the colours – here red, blue and buff in a diamond pattern – are the result of blending colours of clay and not applied glazing.

 

The memorial to Maurice Deacon

A few simple wall monuments and inscribed plaques are scattered around the church, which aren’t of great interest but provide examples of white Carrara marble and Welsh slate, with Hopton Wood stone used for the memorial to Maurice Deacon (d.1941). 

 

The altar step

Quite often, I have encountered various marbles in Victorian churches, with Leeds Minster providing a spectacular example, but the only decorative stone that I noted is used for the altar step. This looks like a polished red/grey Carboniferous Limestone from Wallonia in Belgium, which formed as coral reefs and the  Rouge Royal variety is probably the best known of these.

A detail of the step to the altar

 

The inscribed font, with its round bowl and stem, was made by Robert Bridgeman of Lichfield and the Historic England description seems to indicate that this is one of the original fixtures that dates to the opening of the church in 1896. I didn’t inspect it closely and, when enlarging my photograph, I cannot identify and features that give an indication of what stone has been used.

 

The font

St. Bartholomew's Church - The Exterior

 

A general view from the south-east

When preparing my day out to Old Whittington, I was interested to discover that the Grade II listed St. Bartholomew’s church was opened for the general public and that a local historian would be in attendance, with access to various books and other information about its history. 

 

A view of the tower

 

Pevsner describes it as “1896 by E.R. Rollinson. Stone with a spire”, with Historic England stating the materials used as “Coursed rock-faced gritstone with freestone dressings, slate roof”, with it being in the Decorated style and that it was built on the site of an earlier church. The rest of its description is in the usual very dry style, with a lack of paragraphs, which is not very easy for a layman to understand. 

 

A drawing of the church in 1785 by Samuel Hieronymus Grimm

 

The church website, however, is very comprehensive and from this I learned that the tower dates to 1863 and it was all that remained after a fire had burned the church down in 1895. The earlier church had itself replaced the Norman church (c.1140), which was sited several metres to the south of the current building and its position is marked by two yew trees. 

 

Quarries at Wingerworth

Also, the 1863 church is described as being built with stone from Wingerworth, where the Building Stones Database for England map explorer shows Birdholme Quarry and Sutcliffe Quarry on the Deep Hard Rock and the Bolehill Quarry on the Wingfield Flags. 

 

Wingfield Flags used for walling in the tower

The sandstone used for most of the listed buildings and other historic architecture in Old Whittington is a massive medium grained sandstone, which is generally cross-bedded and has a very high iron content, which produces Liesegang rings and strong orange colouration. Although I did not see any exposures, the quarries in the area worked the Deep Hard Rock and I have assumed that this stone was used in the village. 

 

The upper part of the tower

I didn’t examine the stone closely, but I could immediately see that the walling stone of the tower has a very different character to the presumed Deep Hard Rock. It is plane bedded and is laid in thin courses and, to my eye, has a greenish colour, which I have seen in the Greenmoor Rock in Sheffield  and at the type locality of Green Moor. 

 

Rock-faced Wingfield Flags sandstone used for the walling

In The Building sandstones of the British Isles, published by the Building Research Establishment, the Delph sandstone from the now disused Bolehill Quarry is described as dark buff or dark green/grey in colour. Petrographic analyses of this stone, as published in the geological memoir, refer to a matrix that largely consists of chlorite and this also appears in the Greenmoor Rock which, together with the Grenoside Sandstone, are the northern equivalent of the Wingfield Flags. 

 

Pink sandstone used for the window dressings

I walked anticlockwise around the exterior and noted that the windows have dressings made of a pink medium grained sandstone, which was probably quarried from the Corbar Grit (Ashover Grit) alongside the Derwent Valley in Derbyshire. Where used in the Sheffield Board Schools at Ranmoor, Western Road and Pomona Street by the architects Holmes and Watson, this pink gritstone is described as Matlock stone.

 

Plane bedded Wingfield Flags used for walling

 

The rock-faced thinly coursed walling stone used for the rebuilt church is fine grained and has the same plane bedding and greenish colour, which suggests that this has again been obtained from the same quarry at Wingerworth. 

 

Massive sandstone used in the east elevation of the chancel

 

Moving around to the east end of the chancel, I was therefore very surprised to see that the lower courses are much larger and very irregular in size and shape and the sandstone used is medium/coarse grained, cross-bedded and rich in iron. 

 

A detail of the sandstone used for the lower courses of the chancel

 

I was more interested in the stone used for the very weathered head-stops and the hood mouldings, which I first thought was dolomitic limestone from the Cadeby Formation, as Old Whittington is less than 10 km away from the Magnesian Limestone escarpment. 

 

Head-stops on the north elevation

 

Using my hand lens and applying a drop of hydrochoric acid to the head-stops that I could reach on the west end, I realised that it is a Jurassic oolitic limestone and, when enlarging photographs of a couple of these, I could see that the limestone is predominantly composed of ooliths. 

 

A head-stop with the enlargement showing ooliths

 

I have seen many of these limestones over the years, including Bath stone, Portland stone, Ancaster stone and Clipsham stone and all of these contain fragments of fossil shells to a varying extent and the only limestone that is essentially composed of ooliths is Ketton stone from Rutland. 

 

A head-stop carved from predominantly oolitic limestone

Although I included this limestone in the Triton Stone Library, which is now housed in the Redmires Building at Sheffield Hallam University I have only seen it used in a building at St. Anne’s Roman Catholic Cathedral in Leeds and for the dressings at the Ketton Cement Store of Thos. W. Ward on Attercliffe Road in Sheffield. 

 

A winged lion

I only spent 20 minutes taking general record photographs of the exterior and I will take another look at the various stones used in its construction, and I finished my quick look at the exterior by taking a few photos of the stone carvings on the tower, which include a winged lion and an angel.

 

An angel